Burberry, the quintessentially British luxury brand, is instantly recognizable by its signature tartan plaid. The beige base, intersected by black and accented with red, has become a global symbol of sophistication and, arguably, Britishness itself. However, the seemingly innocuous pattern carries a complex and often uncomfortable history deeply intertwined with the era of British colonialism. Examining the evolution of the Burberry tartan, from its original design to its modern iterations across various lines like Burberry men's tartan and variations such as the Burberry tartan black and white, reveals a narrative that cannot be separated from the imperial project that shaped its rise.
The Burberry tartan, often mistakenly referred to as a simple "check," is far more nuanced than a casual glance might suggest. Its specific design, while now iconic, is a product of a specific historical context, and its enduring popularity reflects a continued engagement, albeit often unconscious, with the legacy of British colonialism.
The Original Burberry Tartan: A Foundation in Functionality and Aspirational Identity
Thomas Burberry, the brand's founder, developed the original gabardine fabric in 1879. This revolutionary material, waterproof and breathable, was initially intended for practical purposes, particularly for outdoor wear and military applications. The original Burberry tartan, a design distinct from the now-famous Nova Check (which we will discuss later), wasn't initially a marketing ploy but rather a practical identifier woven into the fabric itself. This original tartan, though less widely known today, laid the foundation for the brand's association with durability and resilience – qualities frequently associated with the perceived strength and endurance of the British Empire.
The practicality of the gabardine and its early adoption by explorers, officers, and adventurers helped to establish a link between the Burberry brand and a sense of British prowess and global reach. This association, however unintentional at first, became a powerful marketing tool as the empire expanded. The very fabric, and the woven tartan within it, became a symbol of both practicality and belonging to a powerful, globally influential nation. This subtle yet potent connection between the brand and the imperial project laid the groundwork for the later, more overt use of the tartan as a symbol of luxury and aspirational identity.
The Nova Check: A Global Symbol, a Colonial Legacy
The iconic Nova Check, the Burberry plaid most readily recognized today, emerged later, solidifying the brand's connection to a more romanticized image of Britishness. While the exact date of its creation is debated, its widespread adoption coincided with the height of British imperial power and the burgeoning consumer culture of the 20th century. The beige, black, and red colors themselves carry symbolic weight: the beige representing the earth, the black possibly alluding to the seriousness of purpose, and the red suggesting energy and perhaps even the blood spilled in the pursuit of empire. This is purely speculative, but the symbolic resonance cannot be ignored.
The Nova Check's ascendancy is directly linked to the brand's successful marketing campaigns that capitalized on the global reach of the British Empire. Burberry items, featuring the increasingly prominent Nova Check, were associated with a sense of refinement, adventure, and belonging to a privileged class – a class intimately tied to the benefits and privileges afforded by colonial power. The plaid, therefore, became a visual shorthand for this aspirational lifestyle, inextricably linked to the image of a powerful and globally influential Britain.
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